Staying in an Air B&B on Rimska cesta Ljubljana took us from our usual patch in the old town and led us to do what I enjoy most, exploring. We know the traffic free centre of Ljubljana well; our favourite restaurants, cafes, walks, shops, even Mercator grocery stores. And while our rented apartment was no more than 15 minutes dander from Kongress Trg – effectively the city centre, it was a whole new part of town to us. An interesting mix of students and old people, tiny houses and massive 200 year old villas or apartment buildings, court yards and some modern developments.
My favourite places to eat in Slovenia are Gostilna; they are usually old, traditional, inexpensive. A Gostilna is an Inn. Gostilna Pod Lipo is around 200 years old and occupies a corner under a linden tree. From the front it is probably as you would have found it 100 even 200 years ago. To the right side from Borshtnikov trg and on down Igriška ulica, there are outdoor tables I’m guessing shared with another rather nice place The Livingroom Lounge (where over morning coffee I felt decidedly old).
Lipo is all stone floors, plastered walls, thick wooden tables and there is a genuinely warm welcome from an energetic and helpful woman. I can’t call her a waitress. She hosted us as if it were her home, which it might have been for all I know. Only two other diners in the room – we greeted each other.
You can see the menu here The first think you should notice is the value. The prices are better than good – some half what you would pay closer to the centre and in Bled. And notice especially the offer to students. There is also quite a variety and you will recognise many if you eat Slovenia. All well-cooked.
In conversation, I mentioned that I really like Slovenian mushrooms. Moments later the lady reappeared with two beautiful porcini mushrooms. “You shall have those.” Later she brought a couple of slices of another mushroom – can’t remember what, though. She had picked them herself in Pokljuka – a forest and gorge north of Bled, an hour’s drive away. Pokljuka is famous for many tings including being a prime foraging place for mushrooms that feed the homes and restaurants for miles around. She showed us photos from her phone of other mushrooms she had found.
Laško beer to accompany the pork steak in mushroom sauce and croquet potatoes (not so wonderful, but OK).
Being an inn, there are rooms – they have good reviews and at under £60 a night, this might be the restaurant and accommodation the next time we are in Ljubljana.